Rías Baixas: The Ultimate Guide to the Birthplace of Albariño

albariño grows on trellises in the Rías Baixas wine region of Galicia

Rías Baixas (REE-us BYE-shas) is known all over the world for being the home of Albariño: a crisp, saline, acidic white wine that pairs with everything that comes from the sea. But it’s not just Albariño, and it’s not just white wine. Rías Baixas has a lot to offer.

Ready to learn more? Read on for the ultimate guide to the Rías Baixas wine region.

Green Spain

When most people think of Spain, they picture hot and dry plains and Mediterranean beaches. This couldn’t be further from Galicia. 

People often compare this corner of northwest Spain to Ireland, and with good reason too. Craggy coastlines and fog-covered rolling hills are what gives Galicia its magic. And on the southwestern coast of Galicia, surrounded by these stunning landscapes, Rías Baixas produces some of the finest white wines in all of Spain.

All the water to irrigate this greenery has to come from somewhere, and Galicia doesn’t disappoint when it comes to rain. On average, the Rías Baixas get a whopping 1,600 mm of rainfall a year, almost three times the average amount in the rest of Spain. Luckily, they also get a lot of sunshine, so the grapes don’t usually have problems ripening.

A Little Geography

Rías Baixas is located in the southwest of Galicia in the province of Pontevedra. Its 4,184 hectares (10,338 acres) of vineyards are distributed over five subzones.

map of the Rías Baixas wine region and its subzones Val do Salnes, Condado do Tea, O Rosal, Soutomaior, and Ribeira do Ulla
Map © Noah Chichester, 2022, All Rights Reserved

What is a ría, anyway?

 Ría means “estuary” in Gallego, the Galician language. Rías are coastal inlets that form from a flooded river valley. The sea rises and eventually comes inland, drowning the valley and leaving a tree-like formation of inlets and coves.

An estuary, or ría - User:Basilio na wikipedia galega, CC BY-SA 3.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

People often compare them to the fjords of Norway, but the difference is that rías don’t form from the path of a glacier. The pre-existing river valleys that house these estuaries means the land ends in gentle slopes and not striking cliffs like those left by retreating blocks of ice.

Fjord - I, Fgmedia, CC BY-SA 3.0 , via Wikimedia Commons
Ría - farrangallo, CC BY-SA 2.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

Galicians, of course, have a more interesting explanation for how the rías came into being. Legend has it that on the seventh day of creation, God rested to enjoy his work in the most beautiful place of all. He laid a hand on Galicia, and his fingers sank into the earth, leaving impressions to be later filled in by the sea.

And what makes them baixas?

Galicia has lots of rías–18 of them, in fact!

They’re divided by geography, so the ones on the northern coast are called the Upper Estuaries, or Rías Altas, and the ones to the south are called the Lower Estuaries, or Rías Baixas.

Which ones are the Rías Baixas?

 The Ría de Arousa is the biggest estuary in Galicia. It’s located between the Barbanza Peninsula in Coruña province and the Salnés Peninsula in Pontevedra province. Here, the Ulla and Umia rivers end their journeys to the ocean.

Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The islands of Illa de Arousa, Illa Cortegada, and Illa da Toxa sit in the middle of the estuary, and the coastline is home to towns like Vilagarcia de Arousa, Cambados, and O Grove.

Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

To the south is the Ría de Pontevedra, located between the Ría de Vigo and the Ría de Arousa. It stretches inward toward Pontevedra, the city that gives it a name, and towns like Sanxenxo and Combarro dot the coastline. The Ons islands sit at the mouth of the ría, offering it partial protection from the waves coming in off the Atlantic.

The third and final ría bordering the Rías Baixas appellation is the Ría de Vigo. It’s the southernmost estuary, located between Cape Home to the north and Cape Silleiro to the south.

Here, one of the biggest and highest-quality shellfish industries in the world operates day and night. Driven by winds and currents, upwelling brings water toward the surface where shellfish like mussels, clams, cockles, and oysters gobble up the nutrients from deep in the ocean.

Bateas, floating platforms used to grow mussels, in the Ría de Vigo - Gabriel González from Boliñas-Aguasantas-Cotobade, España, CC BY 2.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

The Subzones

map of the Rías Baixas wine region and its subzones Val do Salnes, Condado do Tea, O Rosal, Soutomaior, and Ribeira do Ulla
© Noah Chichester, 2022

The Rías Baixas appellation has five subzones: Val do Salnés, Condado do Tea, O Rosal, Soutomaior, and Ribeira do Ulla. And unlike the subzones of most wine appellations, they’re not contiguous.

The original three founding subzones are Val do Salnés, Condado de Tea, and O Rosal. The Ribeira do Ulla and Soutomaior subzones were added more recently.

Val do Salnés is cooler and wetter than the other subzones because of its proximity to the coast and its location to the north of the appellation. It’s also the biggest subzone in terms of production, with three quarters of Rias Baixas’ growers and just over half its vineyards. Ribeira do Ulla has an equally cool climate, but it’s drier because of its landlocked location. To the south, bordering Portugal along the Miño River, are the Condado de Tea and O Rosal subzones. The Condado de Tea‘s inland location gives it a warmer and drier microclimate, while O Rosal‘s coastline cools it off. Last but not least is the smallest subzone, Soutomaior, nestled in between hills on the Ria de Vigo.

The Rivers

The other main players in the Rías Baixas are its rivers. The Ulla, Miño, Tea, and others wind their way across the land, regulating the climate and leaving rich alluvial soils on their banks.

The Miño River is the most important river in Galicia. Over the course of its 310 kilometers, it flows through the Ribeira Sacra, Ribeiro, and Rías Baixas appellations. In Rías Baixas, it forms the border between Spain and Portugal, first passing through the Condado do Tea, and then heading through O Rosal to reach the Atlantic.

The Ulla River separates the provinces of A Coruña and Pontevedra, flows through the Ribeira do Ulla subzone, and empties into the Ría de Arousa.

The Tea River marks the limit of the Condado do Tea subzone before becoming part of the Miño at Fillaboa de Salceda.

Rías Baixas: The Climate

Rías Baixas’ location along the Atlantic coast gives it a unique climate with moderate temperatures year-round and some of the highest rainfall in Galicia, but also nearly 2200 hours of sunlight throughout the year.

Contrary to popular belief, the rain in Spain stays mainly in Galicia. But then again, it wouldn’t be Green Spain if there wasn’t something to water those plants. The Atlantic climate of Rías Baixas means the region gets a lot of rain, but the ocean also regulates temperatures so they’re never too extreme. In fact, the difference between average summer and winter temperatures is only about 13°C. 

In the winter, thermometers along the coast don’t usually drop below 10° C (50° F), but this is the season when Rías Baixas receives the most rainfall: around 600 mm of the annual average of 1,600 mm falls in winter. When summer begins, rain and storms head north to Galicia’s aptly-named “Coast of Death” instead. As the rain goes away, temperatures usually stay above 20° C (68° F) but they’re never as high as in other regions of Spain with a more continental climate.

But summer brings its own risks. The sandy soils here don’t retain water very well, so if there’s no rain for long periods of time in the summer, there’s a risk of drought. In the past several years, these hot and dry summers in Galicia and northern Portugal have also seen tragedy strike. In 2017, wildfires ravaged the Condado do Tea subzone, burning vast swaths of land and putting vines in danger, and in 2022 the worst wildfires on record raged through Galicia. These fires and the other effects of a changing climate will be just a few of the factors that growers in Rías Baixas will have to confront in the coming decades.

Rias Baixas: The Soils

Rías Baixas has mostly granite bedrock, with some areas of gneiss, schist, slate, and alluvial deposits.

Like most of Galicia, the bedrock here is made up of mainly granitic rocks. The most common soil in Rías Baixas is a type of decomposed granite known as xabre (SHAH-bray). Granite is a naturally hard rock, but it begins to weather when it’s affected by elements of erosion. In Galicia’s case, heavy rainfall and high humidity in the soil gradually penetrate into the rock, wearing it down and decomposing its structure. 

decomposed granite is one of the soils of the Rías Baixas wine region in Galicia
Xabre, the decomposed granite soil typical of the Rías Baixas.

As the rock breaks down, it forms a sandy-textured soil that usually extends to a depth of about 20 cm, and sits on top of more granite. The decomposed structure of the rock allows vines’ roots to creep into its cracks, reaching depths of a few meters. The sandy, loose textures of the well-draining soil allow vines to develop in a region where otherwise they might not, since the amount of rainfall Galicia receives would make viticulture difficult in more compact soils.

It’s not all granite, though. Soils around the rivers tend to have more gravel, sand and clay. Ribeira do Ulla has sedimentary rocks like schists, and in O Rosal and Condado de Tea, alluvial deposits that make up the banks of the Miño are the most common. That said, the difference in geological materials doesn’t make for huge differences in the soils. All of them are acidic, nutrient-poor soils with sandy textures. For an in-depth look at the bedrock of the Rías Baixas, check out the terroir map made by Ted Vance and Iván Rodriguez over at The Source Imports.

Rías Baixas: The Wines

Rías Baixas makes three styles of wines: white, red, and sparkling.

White wines from Rías Baixas are usually single-varietal Albariño wines, or made from a blend of Albariño and other varieties like Loureira and Caíño Branco. They have great acidity and fruit flavors. Aromas differ between subzones, but in general you can expect green apple, peach, apricot, and fresh citrus like lime or lemon peel.

Red wines from Rías Baixas are made from traditional Galician varieties like Caíño Tinto or Sousón. They’re also very acidic with lower alcohol levels around 11-12%. They have fresh red fruit aromas with occasional vegetal or herbal notes.

Sparkling wines from Rías Baixas are made from Albariño, and they conserve all the best characteristics of the Albariño grapes they’re made from. They combine the usual traditional method notes of bakery and brioche with a backbone of Albariño fruit and acidity.

 

Albariño is responsible for the huge growth of Rías Baixas over the last 30 years, but in the middle of the 20th century it was on the verge of extinction.

Luckily, in 1953 a group of wine-lovers had a fateful dinner that would eventually turn into the “Festa do Albariño,” a multi-day festival in Cambados that brought the grape the fame and fortune it deserved. It’s still going strong today!

For more on the rich history of Rías Baixas, check out this deep dive into the wine region’s past.