Treixadura (tray-sha-DOO-ra): fun to pronounce, and even more fun to drink. Not many people know this grape, but not so long ago it was the key to one of the greatest wine trade routes in Europe. Keep reading and learn about the rise and fall (and rise again) of this Galician survivor.
What is treixadura?
Treixadura is a white grape grown mainly in the Ribeiro region of Galicia. It’s the base for the white wines of Ribeiro, making aromatic wines with fruity and floral notes. Traditionally, winemakers in Ribeiro blended treixadura with other grapes like torrontés, lado, albariño, or godello, but in recent years, we’re seeing more and more wines made from 100% treixadura.
Treixadura is the second most planted white grape in Galicia—besides Ribeiro, you can also find it in Monterrei, Rías Baixas, Valdeorras, and Ribeira Sacra. Treixadura also has the distinction of being one of the oldest recorded grape varieties in the region, with the first references to it in the 18th century. In Portugal, it’s known as trajadura.
Treixadura Tech Sheet
- Color: Pale yellow – gold
- Aromatic Intensity: Medium +
- Aromas: Honeysuckle, peach, apricot, golden apple, pear, grapefruit
- Acidity: High
- Alcohol: 11-13.5%
- Body: Medium
- Blended With: Torrontés, Lado, Godello, Loureira, Albariño
- Produced In: Ribeiro, Monterrei, Rías Baixas, Ribeira Sacra
- Synonyms: Trajadura (Portugal)
What does Treixadura wine smell like?
Wines made from treixadura have aromas of apples, pears, and white flowers like honeysuckle blossom, with other characteristic aromas of peach, apricot, and occasionally even tropical fruit like banana and pineapple, or citrus aromas like grapefruit.
What does Treixadura wine taste like?
On the palate, wines are fresh and balanced, with good structure and body. The best wines have a long finish, with lingering fruit aromas.
Some technical details
Levels of alcohol in wines made from treixadura vary depending on the area of cultivation, but commonly fall between 11 and 13.5%. Acidity is usually between 5 and 7.5 g / L and pH between 3 and 3.4. In terms of aromas, treixadura tends to have the highest concentrations of terpenes and norisoprenoids.
How is Treixadura wine made?
The winemaking process for Treixadura is the same as most white wines. Wines made from 100% treixadura are usually made to drink immediately, but some winemakers choose to age the wines for several months in contact with the lees. This changes the aromatic profile of the wine, adding the typical bakery notes of lees, and also adds structure and roundness on the palate.
Some wines also ferment or age in oak barrels. Winemakers have to be careful that the wood aromas don’t overpower the grape’s primary aromas, so you most commonly see second- or third-use barrels instead of new oak.
How is treixadura grown?
Growers in Ribeiro traditionally trained treixadura vines in bush form, with stakes supporting the vines. In the late 20th century, the Guyot form of vine training became the most common with the mechanization of vineyards.
In Ribeiro, treixadura grows on the slopes of the Avia, Miño, and Arnoia valleys as well as on the flat land by the rivers.
The Rise and Fall (and Rise) of Treixadura
First cultivated by monks almost a thousand years ago, treixadura and the other white grapes of Ribeiro became famous all over medieval Europe. Wines left Ribeiro and were carted off to Galicia’s ports, where they left for the Bay of Biscay, Flanders, and Great Britain.
The British loved the wine, and quickly became some of Ribeiro’s best customers. But when Henry VIII broke away from the Catholic Church, relations soured. Spain and England ended up at war at the end of the 16th century, and the Spanish king prohibited the export of Ribeiro wine to England.
With the loss of their best customers, things in Ribeiro took a turn for the worse. Over the next few centuries, famines, grapevine diseases, and emigration left the region a shell of its former glory. By the time the 20th century rolled around, the traditional varieties like treixadura were almost gone, replaced with cheap, high-yielding palomino and alicante bouschet.
Luckily, some people held onto their traditional grapes, and a new wave of growers like Emilio Rojo and Luis Anxo Rodriguez created a sea change in the 1980s, showing the world they could still make a quality wine from Ribeiro’s abandoned grapes. Seeing their success, more and more growers replanted the old varieties, and at the beginning of the 21st century, treixadura and Ribeiro’s other indigenous grapes have finally regained their place as some of the best Galicia has to offer.
Pairing with Food
Like Albariño, Godello, and other Galician white wines, Treixadura’s natural acidity means it’s a great pairing with seafood. But beyond this, it’s a versatile wine that goes with lots of other dishes.
Meat
Treixadura is a great accompaniment to jamón iberico, cured Spanish ham, although other cured meats with salty and fatty flavors like chorizo, salami, or prosciutto are great too. Treixadura’s floral and honeyed notes can combine with a fuller body in some examples to pair with white meat like pork or chicken, and even cut through rich dishes like chicken pot pie or pork chops in cream sauce.
Cheese
Try to pair Treixadura with soft cheeses like Brie or Camembert, along with semi-hard cheeses like Gouda, Edam, and white Cheddar. In Galicia, it’s also common to drink it with soft cow’s-milk cheeses like “tetilla” cheese from Arzua-Ulloa, or even smoked San Simón cheese.
Fish and Seafood
Treixadura shines next to fish and shellfish. Steamed mussels, grilled scallops, and razor clams are all great pairings. Paella and other rice dishes like risottos are another classic option. Fuller-bodied Treixaduras can also go great with whole roasted fish like snapper or bass.
Other Pairings
Treixadura’s honeyed, floral notes make it a good bet for Southeast Asian food, along with roasted vegetables like peppers, red onions, eggplant, and spicy tomato-based dishes.
For more about treixadura, take a deep dive into Ribeiro’s history.
Want to learn more about Galician wine grapes? Check out the rest of them here.