Treixadura: The Queen of Ribeiro
Treixadura (tray-sha-DOO-ra): fun to say, and fun to drink. Not many people know this grape, but not so long ago it was the key to one of the great wine trade routes of Europe. Keep reading and learn about the rise and fall (and rise again) of this Galician survivor.
What is Treixadura and where does it come from?
Treixadura is the second most widely planted white wine grape in Galicia and is found in all of the region’s DOs. It’s mainly grown along the Miño River, from Ribeira Sacra to the O Rosal subzone of Rías Baixas. Treixadura is especially associated with the Ribeiro region, where it historically formed the base for blends with other traditional grapes such as Torrontés, Lado, Albariño, or Godello. In recent years, more and more wineries are making wines from 100 percent Treixadura.
Treixadura can also be found in the Douro and Minho regions of northern Portugal, where it’s called Trajadura. We don’t know exactly where the grape comes from, but research shows that Treixadura is not genetically related to other Galician varieties. Instead, it has a close genetic relationship to the Portuguese varieties of the Vinho Verde region just across the border to the south, so one theory is that it could have originated in what is today Portugal and crossed the Miño River to Galicia.
Treixadura Tech Sheet
Color: Pale yellow – gold
Aromatic Intensity: Medium +
Aromas: Honeysuckle, peach, apricot, golden apple, pear, grapefruit
Acidity: High
Alcohol: 11-13.5%
Body: Medium
Blended With: Torrontés, Lado, Godello, Loureira, Albariño
Produced In: All Galician DOs
Synonyms: Trajadura (Portugal)
What does Treixadura smell like?
Varietal Treixadura wines have aromas of apples, pears, white flowers (honeysuckle blossom), peach, apricot, and occasionally even tropical fruit like banana and pineapple, or citrus aromas like grapefruit.
What does Treixadura taste like?
On the palate, wines tend toward medium acidity and medium body, with a rounded texture. Flavors mirror the nose, with orchard fruit, citrus, and florals dominating.
Some technical details
Treixadura is a late-budding and late-ripening variety, making it more sensitive to altitude. In Ribeiro, this characteristic is reflected in the distribution of vineyards, with very few of the historic vineyard sites above 350 meters above sea level.
It is moderately productive, with low fertility and high vigor. It has conical grape clusters of medium length, width, and compactness, with elliptical, medium-sized, green-yellow berries that turn golden when ripe. When grown on fertile soils, grape clusters become denser, with larger, tightly packed berries and thinner skins, making them more susceptible to rot in rainy harvests.
Treixadura is sensitive to downy mildew and less so to powdery mildew and black rot. Because of the compactness of its clusters, it can be affected by Botrytis cinerea.
Levels of alcohol in single-variety Treixaduras vary depending on where it is planted, but commonly fall between 11 and 13.5%. Acidity is usually between 5 and 7.5 g / L and pH between 3 and 3.4. However, Treixadura can lose acidity quickly toward the end of the ripening cycle, which is why it was often blended with other, higher-acid white varieties.
In terms of aromatic precursors, Treixadura tends to have the highest concentrations of terpenes and norisoprenoids.
How are Treixadura wines made?
The winemaking process for Treixadura is the same as most white wines, with the exception that it’s not common for Treixadura to undergo malolactic fermentation. Varietal Treixadura wines are usually made to drink immediately, but some winemakers choose to age them for several months in contact with the lees, adding structure and roundness on the palate.
Some wines also ferment or age in oak barrels. Winemakers have to be careful that the wood aromas don’t overpower the grape’s primary aromas, so you most commonly see second- or third-use barrels instead of new oak.
How is Treixadura grown?
Treixadura growing in Castrelo do Miño © Noah Chichester, 2022
Growers in Ribeiro traditionally trained treixadura vines in bush form, with stakes supporting the vines. In the late 20th century, the Guyot form of vine training became the most common with the mechanization of vineyards.
In Ribeiro, treixadura grows on the slopes of the Avia, Miño, and Arnoia valleys as well as on the flat land by the rivers.
The Rise and Fall (and Rise) of Treixadura
First cultivated by monks almost a thousand years ago, treixadura and the other white grapes of Ribeiro became famous all over medieval Europe. Wines left Ribeiro and were carted off to Galicia’s ports, where they left for the Bay of Biscay, Flanders, and Great Britain.
The British loved the wine, and quickly became some of Ribeiro’s best customers. But when Henry VIII broke away from the Catholic Church, relations soured. Spain and England ended up at war at the end of the 16th century, and the Spanish king prohibited the export of Ribeiro wine to England.
With the loss of their best customers, things in Ribeiro took a turn for the worse. Over the next few centuries, famines, grapevine diseases, and emigration left the region a shell of its former glory. By the time the 20th century rolled around, the traditional varieties like treixadura were almost gone, replaced with cheap, high-yielding palomino and alicante bouschet.
Luckily, some people held onto their traditional grapes, and a new wave of growers like Emilio Rojo and Luis Anxo Rodriguez created a sea change in the 1980s, showing the world they could still make a quality wine from Ribeiro’s abandoned grapes. Seeing their success, more and more growers replanted the old varieties, and at the beginning of the 21st century, Treixadura and Ribeiro’s other indigenous grapes have finally regained their place as some of the best Galicia has to offer.
Pairing with Food
Like Albariño, Godello, and other Galician white wines, Treixadura’s natural acidity means it’s a great pairing with seafood. But beyond this, it’s a versatile wine that goes with lots of other dishes.
Meat
Treixadura is a great accompaniment to jamón iberico, cured Spanish ham, although other cured meats with salty and fatty flavors like chorizo, salami, or prosciutto are great too. Treixadura’s floral and honeyed notes can combine with a fuller body in some examples to pair with white meat like pork or chicken, and even cut through rich dishes like chicken pot pie or pork chops in cream sauce.
Cheese
Try to pair Treixadura with soft cheeses like Brie or Camembert, along with semi-hard cheeses like Gouda, Edam, and white Cheddar. In Galicia, it’s also common to drink it with soft cow’s-milk cheeses like “tetilla” cheese from Arzua-Ulloa, or even smoked San Simón cheese.
Fish and Seafood
Treixadura shines next to fish and shellfish. Steamed mussels, grilled scallops, and razor clams are all great pairings. Paella and other rice dishes like risottos are another classic option. Fuller-bodied Treixaduras can also go great with whole roasted fish like snapper or bass.
Other Pairings
Treixadura’s honeyed, floral notes make it a good bet for Southeast Asian food, along with roasted vegetables like peppers, red onions, eggplant, and spicy tomato-based dishes.