Describing the aromas in Galician wines requires a little chemistry lesson. Like all wines, the aromas in albariño, mencía, godello, and more come from volatile flavor compounds that are let loose when mixed with alcohol and can be detected by our noses.
Playing politics has its price, and Ribeiro is paying it. Whoever takes over its presidency will inherit a rudderless wine region, trying and failing to emulate the success of Rías Baixas through senseless promotional campaigns…
What’s the difference between paying $18 a glass and 80 cents for wines that we can both call natural?
Here’s a quick overview of the different vine training and pruning styles used in Galicia.
I’m late to my interview with Luis Anxo.
I’ve been filming a video about the medieval terraces of Val do Avia with my friend Antonio Míguez Amil, and between having to take it easy on the gas pedal while driving up the serpentine roads that lead to Antonio’s vineyard, shooting the video, and catching up (I haven’t seen him for a year), we’re running late.
So I call him. “No problem! I’m at the optometrist!” he booms in rapid-fire Galician. “Come by when you’re done and we’ll go to the winery!”
Antonio Míguez Amil probably knows more about Ribeiro than any person alive today. I call him the “wise man of Ribeiro” for his encyclopedic knowledge of the region’s history, terroir, and his dedication to recovering traditional vineyards and planting them with native grapes. He took me to one of the vineyards that he’s painstakingly recovering in San Lourenzo da Pena to talk about the history of Ribeiro and why these old vineyards are worth saving.
Natalia Rodriguez left her job as a lawyer to return to the countryside and try to make organic albariño. Twelve years later, she’s the first certified organic albariño producer in Rías Baixas. We sat down to talk about organic farming, the Condado do Tea, and what makes albariño special.
Albariño Day is an all-you-can-eat-and-drink-without-bursting marathon, complete with concerts, fireworks, and maybe the occasional full-frontal nudity. It’s one of the reasons why Albariño from Rías Baixas is world-famous today, but most people don’t know its origin story…
The people who are bored with the “what grows together, goes together” narrative obviously haven’t been to Galicia, or drunk Albariño with shellfish by the sea in an old man bar in A Illa da Arousa, or seen fleets of bateas floating in the Ría de Pontevedra while they walk through trellised vineyards. This is all to say that if there’s a perfect pairing in this world, it’s Albariño and shellfish. The brine and the wine, baby. And if there’s a perfect Albariño, it comes from Galicia.
Most people outside Spain couldn’t tell you what Ribeiro is—let alone rattle off producers’ names. The people who do know a bit more about Ribeiro can probably name about two winemakers, but can’t tell you much more than that…